Thursday, 30 May 2013

Workbench - Kingdom of Britannia Naval Battlegroup - Finishing Touches

As the title suggests, I have since added the finishing touches to the KoB Battleship. Below is a new painting guide and pics. Since my last post I have completed steps 12-20 of the painting guide:
 
1.   Assemble and clean the miniature
 
2.   Undercoat Black
 
3.   Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) the Hull 1:1 mix Dark Green:Black(V), leaving the upper decks black
 
4.   Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) highlights to the Hull 2:1 mix Dark Green:Black(V)
 
5.   Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) building the highlights to the Hull Dark Green(V)
 
6.   Mask the larger vessels and airbrush the upper deck areas (using 1.5 needle) Dheneb Stone(C), paint this onto the smaller minis
 
7.   Drybrush the white areas with White(V)
 
8.   Drybrush the Hull Gretchin Green(C)
 
9.   Clean-up/Paint the Hull thinned Dark Green(V)
 
10. Highlight the decking Charadon Granite(C)
 
11. Clean-up/Paint the metal/black areas Black(V)
 
12. Paint the portholes Regal Blue(C)
 
13. Highlight the Portholes Lothern Blue(C)
 
14. Highlight the black areas Astronomican Grey(C)
 
15. Paint the metal areas 1:1 mix Liquid Gold Copper(V):Isopropanol
 
16. Airbrush on a layer of Gloss Varnish(V)
 
17. Clean-up/Black line the copper/deck areas with Black(V)
 
18. Apply red/blue ID stripes with Mephiston Red/Kantor Blue(C)
 
19. Apply decal roundels
 
20. Apply a layer of matt varnish
 
 






My next step was to paint and highlight the port holes As always if you would like a closer look at any pictures above, click on them. If you have any comments or would like to ask me questions or provide feedback, please fill in the comments box below (this will be moderated before being published on this blog).

Monday, 27 May 2013

Workbench - Kingdom of Britannia Naval Battlegroup - White Tops / Black Decks

Following the airbrushing of the hulls, I set to work highlighting them. It was at this point that I made my first change to my initial painting guide, deciding to drybrush the hulls rather than damp brush. I usually avoid drybrushing as I find it a little too messy. I decided that, as there was only one colour on the mini, any messiness could easily be cleaned up afterwards. I concentrated the drybrushing (with Gretchin Green) around the rivets and lower hull area. I was a little unhappy with the results, as a lot of my nicely graduated airbrushing had been covered with the drybrushing; I remedied this by layering on a couple of coats of thinned Dark Green. This helped to restore the hull colour, while keeping the highlights (which I didn't paint over). I then pondered my next steps; white areas or black on the decking etc. Previous to starting this fleet, I had airbrushed the white areas on one of my carriers and liked the results. I was fairly sure I wasn't going to get as good results on the white without airbrushing. I therefore decided to airbrush the white areas (at least on my Large class minis). The first step was masking off the completed green areas; this was done with blu-tac, masking tape and pieces of acetate sheet. On the smaller vessels I painted on the white (Dheneb Stone). Once dry the white areas were drybrushed with pure white paint (Ceramite White). The next step was painting all the black and metal areas black. It is at this stage that I have made a couple of artistic changes; firstly the decking, the original colour is too light and has a yellow hue, which wont look right with the new scheme. I have therefore changed this to black with Charadon Granite highlights; this is a more earthy tone and works well with both the green and the white. Secondly, there are certain areas of the ship (looking at the battleship) that look really good in black and contrast well with the green. I have therefore decided to have weapons and deck rails in black and all engine parts in copper. Below are a couple of pics of the battleship, taken with and without a flash, to highlight the lower and upper parts of the mini.
 

 
As always if you would like a closer look at any pictures above, click on them. If you have any comments or would like to ask me questions or provide feedback, please fill in the comments box below (this will be moderated before being published on this blog).

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Workbench - Kingdom of Britannia Naval Battlegroup - Green Hulls

Now that I have my colour scheme sorted for the KoB fleet, I've been airbrushing the green hulls. As stated on my last post, the colours used were all Vallejo Game Colors - 1:1 mix of Dark Green:Black, this was used as the initial even coat, on the areas that were to be green. Most of this colour will be covered in subsequent coats; it's mainly used to help build the transition of colour from black to green. Next further green was added to a 2:1 mix Dark Green:Black. Again, a nice even coat was used, though this time the deepest shaded areas were avoided to create some contrast. Finally pure Dark Green was applied in several coats. Each successive coat working towards a highlight point to make that more green and therefore stand out from the shaded areas. The highlights included the hull' prows, tops of the conical shapes (at the side of the hulls) and railing on the smaller minis. Below are a few pics.
 



As always if you would like a closer look at any pictures above, click on them. If you have any comments or would like to ask me questions or provide feedback, please fill in the comments box below (this will be moderated before being published on this blog).

Monday, 20 May 2013

Step-By-Step Guide - Kingdom of Britannia Naval Battlegroup

 
After a couple of day’s contemplation, I have finally decided on the colour scheme for my Kingdom of Britannia naval fleet for Dystopian Wars. Below are a couple of pics of the paint test Frigate along with a basic painting guide. Once fully completed I will post the completed fleet.




1.   Assemble and clean the miniature 

2.   Undercoat Black 

3.   Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) the Hull 1:1 mix Dark Green:Black(V), leaving the upper decks black 

4.   Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) highlights to the Hull 2:1 mix Dark Green:Black(V) 

5.   Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) building the highlights to the Hull Dark Green(V) 

6.   Paint the portholes Regal Blue(C) 

7.   Paint the decking Calthan Brown(C) 

8.   Highlight the Portholes Lothern Blue(C) 

9.   Highlight the decking Tausept Ochre(C) 

10. Clean-up/paint the black/metal areas with Black(V)

11. Paint the metal areas 1:1 mix Liquid Gold Copper(V):Isopropanol

12. Clean-up the black areas with Black(V)

13. Paint the upper deck Dheneb Stone(C)

14. Highlight the Hull Gretchin Green(C)

15. Highlight the upper deck White(C)

16. Shade the sturginium engines with thinned Magic Blue(V)

17. Airbrush on a layer of Gloss Varnish(V)

18. Black-line the where needed Black(V)

19. Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) the Tesla weapons Magic Blue(V)

20. Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) highlights to the Tesla weapons Electric Blue(C)

21. Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) further highlights to the Tesla weapons Glacier Blue(C)

22. Airbrush (using 1.5 needle) extreme highlights to the Tesla weapons Dead White(C)

23. Apply red/blue ID stripes with Mephiston Red/Kantor Blue(C)

24. Apply decal roundels

25. Apply a layer of matt varnish

(C) = Citadel Paint (V) = Vallejo Game Color Paint

As always if you would like a closer look at any pictures above, click on them. If you have any comments or would like to ask me questions or provide feedback, please fill in the comments box below (this will be moderated before being published on this blog).

Thursday, 16 May 2013

Eye Candy - Dreadfleet - Bloody Reaver

Another ship has sailed from my Dreadfleet commission; this time its the big one - The Bloody Reaver. Though slightly shorter than the Heldenhammer, its at least an inch longer mini. I'm not generally a fan of the bad/evil side in games, so rarely paint them. What I loved about this ship was that it is made up of several ships, all different colours. Those purple sails, I love that colour.










 
 
As always if you would like a closer look at any pictures above, click on them. If you have any comments or would like to ask me questions or provide feedback, please fill in the comments box below (this will be moderated before being published on this blog).

Saturday, 4 May 2013

Eye Candy - Dreadfleet - Heldenhammer

I have this long term commission to work on the a Games Workshop Dreadfleet boxed set. I started with the Heldenhammer as this is one of the biggest and most impressive minis in the box. Measuring in at about 11 cm long by an impressive 11.5 cm high, its probably the biggest ship mini ive tackled to date. I have painted it roughly following the steps in the accompanying White Dwarf magazine (with a little artistic licence). Below are a few pics of the completed work.











 
As always if you would like a closer look at any pictures above, click on them. If you have any comments or would like to ask me questions or provide feedback, please fill in the comments box below (this will be moderated before being published on this blog).

Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Step by Step Guide - Painting Dystopian Wars Minis - Day 7

7. Final day of this guide must be time to add the finishing touches; it’s often these that provide the wow factor for a mini. What I'm going to add is some decoration to the flight deck, warning/guide lines and airbrush some patches of highlighted colour, to make it look worn were the planes have landed. I also want to do some object source lighting (OSL) on the engines to represent the sturginium light leaking from them. The decorations can go on first, as this gives me an opportunity to rough them up later; it is a working ship and I'm sure they won’t be constantly painting the deck. The airbrushed patches should help to give the decorations a worn look and I could always go in with a brush if needing more. In addition, I have a black wash to add to the deck, which will provide some shading between the planking and definition/weathering on top. OSL is a technique used to represent the lighting effects you see when light lands on objects around it. If you think of a dark dungeon wall with a burning wooden torch attached, the light from the fire will spread out across the wall, gradually getting dimmer the further it stretches out from the fire. I think this will help to give the mini a look of life/action. Once the paintwork is completed, I will give the mini a layer of varnish; this will help to make all the colours blend, remove the shine of the gloss and provide some protection while gaming. My final action will be to add the flight stand. Before I put any paint on the mini, my first task was to decide how I wanted the decking to look. A common mistake I used to make when painting was to start painting without a clear plan in mind; as a result, I didn’t always like what was produced. So with this in mind I did a search online for pics of aircraft carrier decks. The pic below stood out to me; I like the white line down the runway, and the red/white markings at the back of the deck. The design of the Tenkei, with the planes parked on deck made me think I should section this area off with some chevrons; to add some variation of colour I thought I would use black/yellow for this.
Paints used – The deck decorations need to start off bright, so I will begin with pure white. I know that I am bound to make some mistakes with this, so I will have Gorthor Brown on hand to clean up with. The bright yellow chevrons will be painted Sunburst Yellow, a Citadel paint from a previous range and my favourite Mephiston Red will do the red chevrons. For the airbrushing I will use Vallejo Game colors Earth on the decking, then an equal amount of Bone white for the extreme areas of ware on the decking. For the OSL I will use Magic Blue, Electric Blue and white. I will also be tire skid marks on the decking with Black and making the black chevrons with a 0.2mm black Micron Pen; these pens are ideal for adding detail as they don’t run like paint can. Here is a pic of the Micron Pen I used.
Method used – The first step was to mark out all the deck decoration with white paint. At first this can seem a little daunting, but there are some tips you can use to make this a little easier. Firstly, I didn’t thin the paint too much; I wanted it to be fairly thick so that it wouldn’t flow between the decking. Secondly, I used the actual decking planks to paint most the straight lines. When painting these, I used the side of my bristle not the tip and ran it down the edge of each plank, before reversing my grip on the mini and running the brush down the other side of the planks completing them. Yes I did make a few minor mistakes, which I cleaned up with the original decking highlight (Gorthor Brown). Also, I wasn’t too concerned about the finish being perfect, as these lines were going to be roughed up at a later stage anyway. When painting the lateral lines (across the decking) for the plane parking bay, I very carefully and lightly (almost a drybrushing technique) drew a line; as you can see from the pick, it looks like a chalk line. I did this several times (side by side) until I had the thickness I needed and then added more paint on top.




Once the marking were in place, I started to give them some colour. I used the same method as before with the side of my brush to paint the plane park bay yellow.
Next, the red/white chevrons at the back of the deck; I started these either side of the runway line (I didn’t won’t this to be red), then completed the rest. I also tidied them up with the Gorthor Brown to ensure they were all the same length.
With the Micron pen I placed the black chevrons on the plane park bay. Unfortunately, I rushed these and the results aren’t as pleasing as I had hoped. What I should have done is spaced then out better, using dots of the pen before filling them in.
The next stages where on the airbrush. First the worn look on the decking, I airbrushed several rough lines down the length of the deck, concentrating around the white line. I then added equal amount of Bone white to the Earth mix and concentrated on spots where I felt the planes would be touching down most. Sadly I got carried away and forgot to take specific pics of these stages, but the finished results can be seen in pic below.
Whilst the Airbrush was in use, I moved onto the OSL on the engines. As mentioned previously, it’s important to visualise/plan your work before putting paint to mini; this is especially important with OSL, as any mistakes can make the results look false or unconvincing. I decided therefore that the light would be emitting from the cog in the centre of the engine parts. This meant that a globe of light would hit the surrounding areas. As important was my consideration of where the light wouldn’t hit, which I would have to mask when airbrushing. (Looking at the finish mini, I can see some overspray which is in the wrong places). I masked the main hull, above the cog/engine by placing my thumb across it. The mistake I maid was not masking either side of the cog/engine; this could have been done simple with some poster tack. The following pics show the progression of lighter paints from Magic Blue, Electric Blue, Electric Blue/White (equal amounts), to white. With each layer the lighter colours are concentrated further towards the centre of the cog, to create the concentration of light.



With the Airbrushing completed I got my trusty brush back out. With black paint, mostly removed on paper towel I flicked the bristles across the flight deck to simulate the wheels skidding down. Around the centre line I added darker skids, using a little more paint on the brush.

With the paintwork completed and completely dry, I sprayed a layer of Citadel Purity Seal onto the mini. I then worked on the flight stand; gluing the pegs to their base with Humbrol Liquid Poly. This is Ideal for this application, being as it is a liquid; I dipped the end of the pegs in the liquid, placed them in the holes in the base then gave them a gentle tap with a hobby hammer. The next step, fitting the base required fire, so I went to the hob in the kitchen with mini and base. I touched each peg to the flame on the hob until they lit then quickly and carefully placed the base on the kitchen top, blow out the flames (like candles on a birthday cake) and placed the mini onto the stand, pressing down slightly into place. The results can be seen in the pic below. The pegs of the flight stand perfectly fit the mini, holding it in the right position. With other minis I have used this technique to put the mini in banking or diving poses. I prefer not to glue the flight stand to the mini and this technique helps to stop the mini wobbling too much on the games table.
The remaining pics are of the finish mini from various angles.












Conclusion – I for one have had a lot of fun painting this mini and blogging about my progress. Apologies that the pics were not always the best, they were all taken on my iPhone. I want to thank everyone who has followed this step by step guide, especially those Spartan forum community members who have supported me. If there are any questions about this work, the techniques I have used or anything else please contact me via email or through the aforementioned forum.
As always if you would like a closer look at any pictures above, click on them. If you have any comments or would like to ask me questions or provide feedback, please fill in the comments box below (this will be moderated before being published on this blog).